Brave, courageous and bold gals…


We flew out of Seattle at 9pm on Sunday in the pitch dark and by the time we reached Alaska four hours later the sun had come back up and the mountain ranges far below the plane were cast in an ethereal blue light and I pressed my face against the window, trying to see drainages, passes, enchanted secret worlds that were far from any road system and that I would only ever get to see this way, from the air, in this metal pressurized ship.

Fairbanks at 1:30 a.m.

At the airport our lyft driver blasted Ukrainian pop music and we arrived at my wonderful friends Allison and AK’s house in Fairbanks at 2 a.m. There was black plastic taped over the small window in the quiet guestroom and it was blessedly dark, and we collapsed.

I woke too early, as I am wont to do before starting these…

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